We carry rebuild kits for the backflow preventers we see most and order anything else. Whether it's an RP dumping water, a double check that won't hold or a PVB leaking from the bonnet, we fix it, retest it and file the passing report.
- PriceFree quote
- Time1–2 hours
- RetestIncluded
- ApprovalPrice first
Want to get on the schedule? Call or book online.
Common fixes
- RP relief valve discharging water
- Broken springs
- PVB bonnet or air inlet leaks
- Check valves that won't hold
- Worn rubber kits
Repairing RP assemblies
RP repairs usually start with a relief valve that's dripping, spitting or dumping water. Most of the time the cause is the first check valve, not the relief valve itself. Debris on the seat or a worn disc lets pressure creep up between the checks, and the relief valve does exactly what it's designed to do.
We open the first check, clean the seat, and replace the rubber if it's worn. If the relief valve diaphragm is torn or the relief valve seat is pitted, we rebuild that section too.
After the repair, the full RP test is run again. A passing result goes to your water district right away. If the relief valve keeps discharging after a rebuild, there may be a pressure issue upstream, and we'll explain what we see.
Fixing a double check that won't hold
A double check that fails its test almost always has one check valve that won't close tight. Debris and worn rubber are the usual suspects, the same as with an RP.
The repair involves shutting off the water, removing the check valve covers, pulling out each check module and cleaning or rebuilding it. Springs are replaced if they've lost tension. Then everything goes back together with new o-rings.
Double checks on fire lines need extra care. Shutting one down affects the sprinkler system, so we coordinate with you before starting and keep the downtime short. Once repaired, the device is retested and the report is filed.
Fixing vacuum breakers on sprinklers
Vacuum breakers on irrigation lines see a lot of sun and weather, so their rubber parts wear faster than devices tucked inside a building. Common problems include water spraying from the bonnet, a check valve that won't seal and an air inlet that sticks.
Most PVB and SVB repairs use a rebuild kit with a new check disc, air inlet poppet and o-rings. If the bonnet is cracked from freezing or sun damage, we replace it.
These repairs are usually quick, and the device is retested right after. If the device is old and parts are hard to find, replacing it can sometimes cost about the same as rebuilding it, and we'll lay out both options.
Parts and brands
The devices we work on come from several major manufacturers, and each model uses specific parts. We stock kits for the most common ones and order anything else.
We stick with the manufacturer's parts for your exact make and model. Off-brand or mismatched parts can get a device to pass once and then fail again soon. We check the model and serial number before ordering.
If we need to order, we'll give you an arrival estimate and book the follow-up visit. Parts usually show up within a few days, and every repair ends with a retest and a filed report.
Warning signs between tests
Some problems show up before the yearly test. Watch for an RP relief port that drips or sprays, a PVB that spits from the top, leaks at fittings or a sudden loss of pressure past the device.
Calling early usually means an easier, less expensive repair than letting it fail completely.
Fire sprinkler preventer repairs
Repairing a fire line device takes a bit more coordination. Shutting it down affects the sprinkler system, so the alarm company or building staff may need a heads-up.
We plan the work with you and keep the downtime short. These devices are often 4 inches or larger, and you'll get a quote before any work begins.
Repair visits and scheduling
Many repairs happen on the same visit as the test, right after the failed reading. If you'd rather think it over or need approval from an owner or board, we'll leave the quote and schedule a return visit.
If another company tested and failed your device, send us the report. The readings tell us which parts to bring, so the repair usually takes just one trip.
Can it be saved?
Most can. If not, we'll explain why and quote a replacement.
Questions
Which brands do you repair?
The common ones: Watts, Febco, Wilkins and Ames, plus most others we can get parts for.
How long do repairs last?
A good rebuild often lasts years. Debris in the water is the main thing that shortens it.
Is the relief valve always the problem when an RP leaks?
Usually not. Most of the time the first check is fouled or worn, and the relief valve is doing its job.
Do you use original parts?
Yes. We use the manufacturer's repair kits for your make and model.
Why does my preventer keep failing?
Debris in the line and age are the usual reasons. We'll tell you if replacing it makes more sense.
Do I need a new test after a repair?
Yes, and it's included. The district only accepts a passing test after the repair.
How we handle backflow preventer repair in Corona
Our approach is simple. Show up when we say we will, do the work right, and handle the paperwork so you don't have to. Every tester is certified, every gauge is kept in calibration, and filing with your water district is included.
Pricing is clear. Tests are a flat $105 for devices under 4 inches and $175 for 4 inches and larger, and anything beyond the test is quoted before we start. We're available seven days a week from 6am to 12pm, with emergency calls answered 24/7. Most Corona appointments are within the same week, and you'll have a copy of your report by email when we're done.
Backflow Preventer Repair in Corona and nearby
Need backflow Preventer Repair outside Corona? We also cover Norco, Eastvale, Home Gardens, Weisel and Arlington. Same-week visits are normal, and booking takes a couple of minutes.